In The Press: Melissa Morris x The Ned

You studied sculpture and business at Emory University in Atlanta, Georgia, before embarking on a career working for major fashion brands Armani, Helmut Lang and Belstaff. What lessons did you learn that you applied to your own business Métier?

I have always loved math – that there is a right and wrong answer – and equally have always loved art and design. At University, I loved going from classes in the business school straight into the Sculpture Studio. It was really fun to shift my brain from left to right. But ultimately I think the combination of both has been key for me. I love to develop a framework and a plan – and then colour inside the lines to bring it to life.

Fashion has been built on resource extraction and exploitation, meaning it has an enormously detrimental impact on both the planet and people. Fast fashion obviously being the biggest culprit. What do you see are the biggest problems facing the industry at large today?

Without a doubt, I believe that by constantly creating new collections, you are creating a huge amount of waste. With constant newness, it is training clients to constantly replace what they already have which of course is incredibly wasteful. The truth is that there is not demand for the sheer quantity of products that are being produced so the only answer is to replace.

One of our founding principles at Métier is our “anti-replacement ethos”. We are proud that we do not want our clients to replace their bags. We do not follow the cyclical fashion cycle; each product is designed to serve a unique purpose and we only create new pieces when there is a journey we have not already addressed. We have tested each piece in a facility in Italy that simulates 20 years of use.

As we strive towards the 2040 net zero targets set by the British Retail Consortium and the United Nations Global Compact how much do you think the industry will change?

I think the more we focus on timeless and seasonless production the better. Not only will there be less waste from over-production, but also the carbon footprint associated with constant development of new collections, shipments of prototypes and finished goods, the energy expended from sales and marketing campaigns can also be minimised.

The basic premise for World Earth Day 2023 is to encourage people to buy less and shop for quality over quantity, something I know you advocate. What simple steps can we all take?

Choose carefully and choose well. Is the quality designed to last? Does this piece really suit your need? This doesn’t mean getting dressed can’t be fun – it can! I just like to always consider my “price per wear”… I’d rather invest in more expensive pieces that I know I can wear often and for a long time.

I know you’ve been working on providing sustainable bag options, how important is this to your business?

We have created two luxury ‘leather’ bags using apple leather, a newly innovated, plant-based alternative to both conventional leather and other vegan options made from polyurethane. Apple leather is made by taking the waste (pulp, core and peel) leftover from apple juice production on farms in South Tyrol, Italy, grinding it, and pressing it with recycled cotton and polyester. By up-cycling food waste to create materials and dyes, they are not only tackling issues of deforestation, high carbon emissions, water usage and chemical pollution, they are also providing a solution to the alarming problem of food waste, which, according to the United Nations, contributes to around one-tenth of the world’s climate-warming gases. Our that apple leather bags have gone through the same testing process as our leather styles, and come out of the process unscathed. As consumers, we don’t need to sacrifice quality when choosing the sustainable option.

How big a part does sustainability play in the design process?

Our customers are first attracted to our sustainable bags based purely on the way they look. The fact that they are made from apple leather is simply an added bonus that seals the deal.

Is the problem basically volume? If we don’t address this (as an industry) can we meet any of the sustainability targets we’ve set?

Collectively we all need to look at the way we shop. I am a firm believer in durability. For me, products are not meant to be discarded or replaced but should be made to get better with age. To ensure longevity, we put all our products to the test in a machine that replicates the equivalent of 20 years’ worth of wear by subjecting it to wind, rain and 10kg of pressure from rocks. If a bag has been designed to look beautiful and functional, you should never need to replace it.

What does luxury mean to you?

Timeless, Authentic, Perfected. Design at its core should solve a problem or improve what’s already out there. The luxury version should do this in the most beautiful and perfected way.

Thanks to the hype around Succession there’s a lot of talk around quiet luxury at the moment. Métier fits into this quiet, confident, understated sphere. This must make you very happy…and does this describe your own personal style?

Yes definitely. I have carefully collected perfectly tailored, classic pieces over the years. I would rather invest in one perfect piece than six others that don’t fit perfectly. This might sound boring, but honestly I think it’s a big misconception that basic are dull. To me nothing is better than a perfectly tailored white shirt. It’s a matter of how you mix pieces and combine textures. If I wear a crisp white shirt, I pair it back to vintage denim, a classic belt and a simple gold necklace.. I love to mix neutrals too. Its all about quality over quantity and knowing what pieces work best for you, that quietly communicate your taste. I suppose that’s the definition of quiet luxury.

One last thing, You really are the master of packing…your 3 top tips…

I have got very good at packing. My best trick is my carry-on. I load it with all kinds of different sized pouches. One for my electronics. One for my toiletries. My Runaway for my essentials. My travel pillow, extra socks, a cashmere wrap that can be a scarf or a blanket… and I must admit I can get through the security line in about 30 seconds flat. I have a special pocket for the laptop and side pockets for toiletries and a special place for the passport which is easy to access. I like to move as quickly through the airport as possible and feel as together as possible so I can remain relaxed and calm.

Sorry, I lied…the one bag everywoman should own…asking for a friend

The Stowaway! It clips inside all our larger bags and is my absolute secret weapon.